"Pro Motocross and Off-Road Riding Techniques" by Donnie Bales and Gary Semics

• The Fundamentals of motocross are maintaining the center of balance and mastering the use of all five controls.
• Maintaining the center of balance deals with body positions and movements.
• Mastering the use of all five controls deals with proper control of the clutch, throttle, front brake, rear brake, and shifter.
• When your riding plans call for rain, an automotive product called Rain-X could turn out to be your best friend.
• Controlling body temperature is critical when riding.
• Items typically carried in a fanny pack are Phillips and slot-head screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, spark plugs and spark plug wrench, wrenches (8, 10, and 12 mm) and sockets, knife, zip ties, electrical tape, safety wire, master link, driver’s license, emergency cash, energy bars, and a small assortment of nuts and bolts.
• The goal in staying warm is to stay dry. There are two keys to staying dry in cold weather: layering and high-tech fabrics.
• It’s a good idea to maintain a motorcycle setup log, to keep track of what works and what doesn’t.
• An aluminum handlebar is preferable, because of the strength. Steel bars are cheaper, but you can bend them easily. Aluminum bars, especially the better-quality units, are strong and justify the extra expense after a few get-offs.
• Width is another way to tailor your handlebars to your needs. While motocrossers and desert racers usually prefer stock width, cross-country and enduro riders tend to shorten the bars to 28-29 inches. This gives the bike a narrower profile, so it can fit between trees more easily. Note that the narrower the handlebar, the less control you have over the bike, because of the decreased leverage.
• Grips should be glued to the handlebar using a grip glue and then safety-wired to the handlebar, to reduce the chances of a grip spinning and coming loose.
• Position the levers so their ends are about ⅜ inch from the end of the handlebar. This decreases the likelihood of a lever snapping during a crash.
• Adjust the shifter so the bottom of the lever is on the same horizontal plane as the top of the footpeg.
• No matter what the conditions, a worn out tire gives bad results. Once the sharp edge of the knob rounds off, it loses grip.
• The lower the air pressure, the better the traction, but also the more vulnerable the inner tube is to flats.
• One way to reduce flats altogether is to install a solid foam insert known as a bib mousse.
• Suspension setup is the most critical element of motorcycle setup.
• Gearing is one of the easiest ways to customize power. Adding a tooth to the rear sprocket will increase acceleration but will reduce top speed. In contrast, subtracting one tooth will increase top speed but will mellow throttle response.
• As a rule, never go faster than feels comfortable, especially in unfamiliar terrain.
• Anywhere barbed wire is present is a threat to man and machine. Barbed wire can cause flat tires, get entangled in your bike, or rip you off the seat. Though it can be extremely difficult to see, use common sense and pay attention to any signs that may clue you in.
• Fog can reduce visibility to zero, making it one of the most dangerous riding conditions.
• When dry, grass provides loads of traction. However, when it’s wet, it can be extremely slippery. When you’re on wet grass, treat it like ice.
• Riding over gravel is like riding over marbles. Though it may seem harmless, don’t underestimate its capability to rip you off your bike and pummel you into the ground.
• Pay close attention when ice is present. If you come in contact with it, you’ll most likely end up on the ground.
• When it’s necessary to cross water, look for the area that appears the shallowest and narrowest. As a rule, don’t cross any body of water unless you can see the bottom and/or see someone else do it and feel confident making an attempt. Water can be extremely harmful to your bike, especially if it gets sucked into your intake tract.
• Terrain and Obstacles
• Never ride faster than feels comfortable and safe.
• Always look ahead for upcoming obstacles and signs of danger.
• Always make sure you’re traveling at a safe enough speed so you have plenty of room to apply the brakes in case you misread the terrain.
• Obstacles are more than rocks, jumps, trees, cacti, water, and so on. They also include other riders, cars, animals (both alive and dead), barbed wire, angry landowners, and anything else that could cause you harm.
• The basic body position is to have your weight centered on the seat, with both feet on the foot pegs, so you can make contact with the shift lever and brake pedal. Both hands should be on the controls, with one or two fingers on the clutch and brake levers, and your elbows up. You should be over gripping the throttle.
• Body Position
• Your head should be above the handlebar mounts (most of the time).
• Your knees should be bent, carrying your weight.
• Keep your elbows high.
• Overgrip the throttle.
• Have one or two fingers on the clutch and front brake levers.
• Keep your head up, and look ahead at upcoming obstacles.
• A general rule is that if you’re not using the shifter or brake, you should be on the balls of your feet. When you need to use the shifter or brake, move up to the arches of your feet, then move back to the balls of your feet when you’re done.
• Braking
• Body position is crucial. Most braking is done in the standing position, with knees bent, elbows up, and weight back a bit.
• Adjust body position to keep the rear wheel on the ground.
• Complete most of your braking before initiating a turn.
• Apply the brakes progressively.
• Avoid locking up the front wheel.
• When possible, choose lines that avoid sand, mud, or braking bumps.
• Brake before or after braking bumps.
• Apply the brakes gently on slippery surfaces such as sand, mud, snow, or ice.
• If you have to brake when traction is poor, use the brake more gently and progressively. Similarly, avoid overly aggressive braking on off-cambers.
• It’s much more efficient to accelerate in a straight line than while turning, because your bike has less resistance, and the tire has more contact surface with the ground.
• Acceleration
• Select the gear that will allow the engine to work the most efficiently.
• Avoid wheelspin through careful throttle control and clutch use.
• Search for lines that offer the most traction.
• Use your legs to absorb acceleration bumps while standing.
• Try to carry as much momentum as possible.
• Adjust your weight forward and backward to find the delicate balance that gives the rear wheel traction without allowing the bike to wheelie.
• Acceleration is most effective in a straight line.
• You should be either on the gas or on the brakes. Don’t coast.
• Regardless of whether you’re sitting or standing, many riders agree it’s best to pick one gear and stick with it until you’re out of the turn.
• Cornering
• Most cornering is done in the seated position, to lower the center of gravity.
• Weight the front of the bike, to help the front wheel maintain traction.
• Train yourself to roll the throttle on when exiting corners, which allows you to smooth and start your drive earlier.
• Do most of your braking before initiating the turn.
• When possible, try to make wide, gradual turns, to maintain momentum.
• Look for berms and ruts that could help you turn more quickly, especially on off-camber turns.
• Try an assortment of lines.
• It’s critical to avoid hard braking in any turn, unless you have to avoid a downed rider or something else dangerous. Jamming on the brakes will cause your wheels to slide, especially when you’re leaned over, and if you are, the natural tendency is to straighten your bike and force it to go straight.
• Jumps
• Start with small jumps at slow speeds.
• In most instances, maintain a neutral body position on the bike.
• Typically, the idea is to stand on takeoff, in midair, and while landing.
• Adjust your body positioning in the air to control the bike’s attitude.
• Use your knees and elbows to help the suspension absorb the impact.
• Use the motor’s acceleration to help the suspension soak up energy while landing.
• Landing on downslopes is typically much easier on the suspension and the rider.
• Whenever possible, avoid landing with the brakes on.
• If you’re in the air for an extended period, rev the engine as much as necessary to keep it from stalling.
• When jumping double, triple, or tabletop jumps, the usual goal is to land on the downslope and avoid clipping the top portion of the landing area.
• Once both tires drop into a narrow groove, you’re more or less along just for the ride and can do little to change direction.
• Ruts
• Look for alternative lines.
• Scan ahead to see where the rut leads.
• In a straight line, choose the straightest rut possible.
• Pay attention to now the ruts deteriorate over time.
• Avoid following other riders in the same rut when possible.
• Watch out for the chain guide, fork tubes, foot pegs, gear shifter, and brake pedal, which will often scrape the rut walls.
• Keep your toes pointed upward.
• Whoops
• Stand up, so you can absorb the shock with your knees and can frequently redistribute body weight.
• Pick the straightest line possible.
• Look for the smoothest line.
• Pick a gear that will give you a quick burst of power when needed.
• Avoid following other riders.
• Stay off brakes unless absolutely necessary.
• Keep your front end straight.
• Trees
• Watch out for roots that can be hidden under leaves.
• Keep an eye out for low branches that could knock you off your bike.
• When splitting two trees, make sure you have enough room to safely negotiate.
• When riding under a fallen tree, make sure you have enough room to squeeze by, and remember that a helmet and drink system add height when you’re in a crouched position.
• Rocks
• Look for the smoothest line.
• Watch for bowling-ball-sized rocks that could hit your footpeg and injure your feet.
• Watch out for hidden rocks.
• Stay focused and avoid being overly aggressive.
• Avoid wheelspin.
• Make sure your bike is protected with guards.
• Watch for sharp rocks that could cause flats.
• Try to keep your feet on the footpegs as much as possible.
• Water
• Look for the shortest and shallowest place to cross.
• Stand up, so you can use your knees to compensate for any sudden changes in terrain.
• Be alert for underwater rocks that could affect steering.
• Make sure your electrical system is properly sealed.
• Don’t create so much splashing that water gets into your air filter.
• Log Crossings
• Look for the lowest point to cross.
• Loft the front wheel over, and ease the rear across at low speed.
• Avoid wheelspin.
• Watch out for broken branches.
• Look for alternative lines.
• Get your riding buddies to help you lift your bike over if it’s too difficult to ride over.
• Speed
• Look far enough ahead so you can see upcoming obstacles.
• Never go faster than conditions permit.
• Weight the back of the bike.
• Avoid sudden movements.
• Sidehilling
• Look for the smoothest line.
• Avoid excessive speed.
• Weight the outside footpeg.
• Make sure you know where the trail leads.
• Avoid sidehilling near cliffs.
• Look for the most traction.
• Use ruts or pre-existing lines to your advantage.
• Avoid sharp turns.
• Maintain momentum.
• Avoid quick bursts of power that produce excessive wheelspin.
• Downhills
• Never begin a descent unless you know you have a safe path to the bottom.
• Stand up, with your weight toward the back of the seat.
• Avoid building too much speed.
• Watch out for bumps that could cause you to lose contact with the ground.
• Avoid grabbing too much front brake at once.
• Uphills and Cliff Climbs
• Choose a route before attacking the climb.
• Maintain steady throttle.
• Frequently adjust body weight to maintain traction without wheelying.
• Make sure you’ve selected the correct gear and, in most cases, avoid shifting.
• G-Outs
• Adjust your body weight so it’s slightly rear of center.
• Slowing down usually softens the impact.
• Keep your toes pointed up, so if you bottom, your feet won’t get hung up on anything lying on the ground.
• Stand whenever you hit a G-out, so your legs and arms soak up some of the impact.
• Uphill Ruts
• Line up both wheels before the entrance of the rut.
• Avoid wheelspin as much as possible.
• Too much clutch work could make your rear wheel dig in.
• Make sure the rut is not too deep.
• Don’t follow other riders too closely.
• Maintain as much momentum as conditions permit.
• Watch for ruts that split into several lines.
• Make sure the rut exits in a desired location
• Look for alternative lines.
• Watch for rocks, tree roots, or other obstacles protruding from rut walls.
• Avoid being overly aggressive.
• Survival Tips
• Don’t panic.
• Always ride with a friend.
• Carry a fanny pack containing spare part and tools.
• Carry snack bars, water, and matches.
• Carry some type of liquid and energy bar at all times.
• Riding with another person is always recommended. If you get stranded or hurt, that person may be the only one who can provide help.
• Passing
• Avoid following riders in the same line.
• Look for places to pass during practice.
• Don’t try to pass a rider who’s riding off his head. Wait for him to make a mistake or crash, then seize the opportunity.
• Out accelerate the other rider.
• Out brake the other rider.
• Off-road riders can pass riders through faster pit stops.
• Starts
• Get to the gate early for best selection.
• Visualize your entire start, including line choice and braking into the first turn.
• Get familiar with the start procedure before your race.
• Prep your gate for a smooth launch.
• Stay focused.
• Maintain steady throttle control; avoid overrev.
• Minimize wheelspin.
• Use the front brake to avoid rolling into the gate.
• Pay attention to clutch engagement.
• Select the proper gear.
• Lean forward.
• Watch the [gate] mechanism.
• Pay careful attention to upshifting.
• Bike Selection
• Make sure you feel comfortable with the size of your motorcycle.
• The 80s and 125s require more rpm and clutch work to use effectively.
• The 250s have ample power in a broad range, giving you the option of riding with more rpm and clutch work or exiting turns a gear higher.
• Open bikes are usually ridden a gear high, to smooth out power and reduce vibration.
• Four-strokes usually offer smooth power delivery and require you to maintain momentum, because they don’t build revs as explosively as a two-stroke.
• Strategy
• You can’t win if you don’t finish.
• Never give up.
• If you’re racing a championship, think long term.
• Avoid riding injured.
• Pay attention to bike setup during practice.
• Walk as much of the course as possible before your race.
• Avoid following other riders.
• Don’t take unnecessary chances.
• In off-road races that require pits, make sure the pit stops are organized, speedy, and efficient.
• Four-Strokes
• Let the motor help you slow down. Four-strokes offer excellent engine braking.
• Don’t abuse the clutch. Four-strokes overheat easily, and most clutches fade when used like a two-stroke.
• Pay attention when chopping the throttle on jump faces. Engine braking may lower the engine too fast and can cause the front end to drop suddenly on takeoff.
• Four-strokes crave flat turns, so don’t always seek out ruts and berms as your first two options.
• Power delivery of four-stroke engines provides lots of traction and can be an advantage in mud, off-camber corners, and at motocross-style starts. Remembering this will give you more confidence when racing or riding against two-strokes.